A House With A Date Palm Will Never Starve: Cooking With Date Syrup
A House With A Date Palm Will Never Starve: Cooking With Date Syrup

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A House With A Date Palm Will Never Starve: Cooking With Date Syrup

Michael Rakowitz’s statue, The invisible enemy should not exist, is made from over 10,000 tins of date syrup and is the latest commission to occupy the Fourth Plinth in Trafalgar Square. Now celebrated as one of the most famous public art commissions in the world, the idea began in 1994 when Prue Leith (then chair of the Royal Society of Arts) launched a campaign for a public statue on the Fourth Plinth.

Both a fashionable superfood and Iraqi cupboard staple, date syrup is gluten-free, vegan and can be used in everything from fresh soups and salads to sticky puddings and comforting stews.

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A House With a Date Palm Will Never Starve: Cooking With Date Syrup, published by Plinth and Art / Books, 2019.

Rakowitz has gathered together friends and chefs from around the world – including Claudia Roden, Yotam Ottolenghi, Nuno Mendes, Giorgio Locatelli, Anissa Helou and Prue Leith - in his new cookbook, A House With A Date Palm Will Never Starve, inspired by cooking with date syrup. Iraqi-American Rakowitz sees the cookbook as a way to taste the sculpture, whose empty tins are replenished with the syrup in these pages and – soon enough – in kitchens across the world. The volume (available to pre-order now) spans nine sections and features exquisite food styling and photography – by contributor Olia Hercules and Joe Woodhouse respectively – alongside sketches from the artist himself to illustrate each chapter.

The launch of the cookbook coincides with a major exhibition of artworks by Rakowitz at The Whitechapel Gallery taking place there from 4 June - 25 August. The artist’s debut survey premieres his most important projects from two decades, with eight multifaceted installations drawing on architecture, cultural artefacts and cuisine. Rakowitz is also showing culinary-inspired work at FOOD: Bigger than the Plate at the V&A until 20 October.

Mr cooking

Michael Rakowitz cooking at Refettorio Felix. Image credit Joe Woodhouse.

The cookbook brings together a cast of chefs – from diasporic Iraqis such as Michael’s mother Yvonne Rakowitz, Linda Dangoor and Philip Juma, to international chefs and food writers including Alice Waters, Marcus Samuelsson, Reem Kassis, Margot Henderson and Cameron Emirali - to collate traditional recipes and propose new ones that use Iraqi date syrup. Both a fashionable superfood and Iraqi cupboard staple, date syrup is gluten-free, vegan and can be used in everything from fresh soups and salads to sticky puddings and comforting stews.

As the Mesopotamian proverb goes, ‘A house with a date palm will never starve’; change starts from the ground and grows up, like the trunk of a tree.

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Figs with sticky date dressing, by Anna Jones Image credit Joe Woodhouse.

As the Mesopotamian proverb goes, ‘A house with a date palm will never starve’; change starts from the ground and grows up, like the trunk of a tree. It is about all the palm’s elements: the dates, the shade it provides, the fallen leaves for woven furniture, and finally, the wood that can be used to expand the house as the family grows. All these elements sustain life and the home. In Iraq, it is traditional for parents to place a date in the mouth of their newborn baby, so its first taste of life is sweet: a harbinger of good things to come.

Beyond the book itself, this project is geared to reinvigorate an economy for a staple foodstuff in a war-torn country: to this day, almost all date syrup comes from Iraq before being packaged and labelled as a product of other countries. While dates still occupy a semi-sacred space in Middle Eastern cultures, their extraordinary versatility – and potential as a healthy alternative to refined sugar – has seen the fruit and its syrup gain popularity in contemporary cuisine more widely. As contributor and legendary chef Alice Waters said, “Dates are so symbolic. They have some kind of magical aspect to them; sweet, and bountiful. They can grow in very dry places”.

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Falling-apart lamb shoulder with date syrup, chickpeas, fennel, and chilli, by Thomasina Miers. Image credit Joe Woodhouse.

From marinades to pickles, traditional Iraqi dishes to twists on English classics, cocktails to chutneys and beyond, date syrup has found a new home in these pages. Published by Art / Books in association with Plinth, and featuring an introductory essay by Claudia Roden, the cookbook launch will be accompanied by a series of talks, events and supper clubs throughout summer 2019, offering both the media and wider public the chance to sample the book’s recipes and acquaint themselves with date syrup – a panacea for kitchens everywhere.

From marinades to pickles, traditional Iraqi dishes to twists on English classics, cocktails to chutneys and beyond, date syrup has found a new home in these pages.

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Pot barley pudding with roasted apples and date syrup, by Yotam Ottolenghi. Image credit Joe Woodhouse.

With huge thanks to our contributors:

Sara Leana Ahmad
Sam and Sam Clark (Moro, Morito)
Linda Dangoor
Caroline Eden
Cameron Emirali (10 Greek Street)
Eleanor Ford
Jason Hammel (Lula Café)
Stephen Harris (The Sportsman)
Anissa Helou
Margot Henderson (Rochelle Canteen)
Olia Hercules
Charlie Hibbert (Thyme)
Anna Jones
Philip Juma (JUMA Kitchen)
Reem Kassis
Asma Khan (Darjeeling Express)
Florence Knight
Jeremy Lee (Quo Vadis)
Prue Leith
Giorgio Locatelli
Nuno Mendes
Thomasina Miers (Wahaca)
Shatha Alimara Najib
Nawal Nasrallah
Russell Norman (Polpo)
Yotam Ottolenghi (Ottolenghi, NOPI)
Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich (Honey & Co)
Michael Rakowitz
Yvonne Rakowitz
Brett Redman (Jidori, Elliot’s)
Claudia Roden
Nasrin Rooghani
Marcus Samuelsson (Red Rooster, Aquavit)
Niki Segnit
Rosie Sykes
Summer Thomas
Kitty Travers
Vicky Graham (Vicky’s Donuts)
Alice Waters (Chez Panisse)
Soli Zardosht

Medjool date old fashioned  by russell norman

Medjool date Old Fashioned, by Russell Norman. Image credit Joe Woodhouse.

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